My "can't-leave-Paris-without" list

Les Nymphaes in the Musee de l'Orangerie, © 2012, Joan Klau

• Musee de l'Orangerie houses Monet's waterlily series as they were designed to be displayed - in 2 big oval rooms, with 4 paintings per room. What's most incredible is how sunlight from the skylights of this old greenhouse influence the colors of the paintings. If a cloud passes over, it completely changes how you view the paintings. Amazing. Everytime I go to Paris, I easily spend an hour or two in just those two rooms.  It is one of my happy places.  The basement has non-Monet stuff worth visiting if you have time.  More about why I love it here.
• Even if you aren't a museum person, the design of the Musee d'Orsay is pretty cool - the inside of an old railway station. But, if you do like art, it has a great collection of Impressionist art. 
• The amazing stained glass windows in Sainte Chappelle are best lit by morning light.  They're in the processing of cleaning and restoring the stained glass at Ste Chappelle, and it's quite amazing to see the difference between clean and dirty.  Just a tip: you can't really see the church from the street - it's tucked behind the wall around La Concergie so just south of the ornate black and gold gates that show off the French supreme court, look for a line forming and going into an arch on the west side of the street.
• A block away is Notre Dame, which you could easily spend an hour inside and out.  If you want to tour it, I recommend going first thing in the morning:  get in line for the tower stairs to see the gargoyles about 15-20 minutes before they open - that'll be the shortest wait all day.  Then tour the inside (I found the audio tour worth it).  Outside, don't forget to walk around the south side and eastern back end to appreciate the famous flying buttresses.  For the prettiest pictures, come back at sunset - in fact, I highly recommend that once you're done snapping shots of sunset's glow on the front facade, walk around the back and over the bridge to Île Saint-Louis and toast sunset with a glass of champagne at one of the cafes facing Notre Dame.
• My favorite Paris stroll is from Notre Dame to the Tuileries, detailed here. 
• I also love to stay in and wander around the Marais.  My favorite long lazy walk through the Marias is mapped out here.
• I love to make a pilgrimage to Montmartre for interesting sights (church, carousel, park), amazing city views, and a nice walk through an interesting neighborhood – all detailed here. If you're a fan of the movie Amelie, this was her neighborhood.  
• La Maison Angelina has the best hot chocolate (called l'africain), a pretty wonderful nicoise salad, and some insane pastries. #226 Rue de Rivoli, across the street from the Tuileries.
  
• Le Petit Zinc is a romantic art deco brasserie throwback to Paris 1920; service is great without being obsequious; and every last bite was delicious. The Fruits de Mer plats are hay-uge. It's right around the corner from Cafe de Flore and Les Deux Magots, 2 classic Parisian cafes - all of which are right at the St Germain des Pres metro. 

You'll find more favorite wanderings here. 

Shaklee 2013 Paris Trip Advice

Congratulations to all the hard-working Shaklee people who, simply by sharing what they love about Shaklee, earned the Shaklee International Luxury trip to Paris this fall.  They each earned first-class tickets for two to Paris for a week at the Westin Place Vendome, including a private after-hours tour of the Louvre.  Since Shaklee picks up the tab for the trip, a lot of my usual Paris-penny-pinching advice won't be needed for those folks, so this post is specific to their stay.

This advice still applies:

• My must-see/do list. 
• My favorite walk in all of Paris.
• My other favorite walk.
• Other sights and walks I love.
• Restaurant recommendations - both splurgy and simple. 

Specific to your stay and neighborhood:

Les Bateaux Mouches

Paris sunset cruise, © 2012, Joan Klau

I strongly recommend taking a bateau mouche tour along the Seine a) on your first night to orient yourself, and b) at or just past sunset to truly appreciate why Paris is called the City of Light. The sun sets late in Paris (9:30p in early May), so eat dinner first (sit outside to enjoy the golden hour light bouncing off buildings and filtering through the plane trees), then stroll along the river to your bateau mouche. Every hour on the hour, the Eiffel Tower does a 2 minute light show, so time your ride accordingly. Fair warning: in warm weather, students like to hang out, drink and sing along the riverbanks from Notre Dame east, so you may get flashed.

There are several companies that run river cruises, and some offer dinner cruises. I've only done the Bateaux Mouches down at Pont d’Alma because they run the latest rides, but it requires a cab ride there, and a long walk up to either the Metro or a long line for a cab home. Next time I’m in Paris, I’m going to try the Vedettes du Pont-Neuf, which have a much more convenient location, and cheapest fares.

Paris restaurants

If you can’t make reservations online, I find it’s worth having the hotel receptionist calling ahead for you.  My never-fail happy places:

View from the Jules Verne restaurant. 
Note the observation deck below. 

• Do not miss getting the l'africain (hot chocolate) at La Maison Angelina, near the Louvre/Tuileries.
• Le Petit Zinc is a lovely Art Deco bistro in Saint-Germain-des-Prés with delicious food, including gorgeous fruits de mer platters.
• Bofinger Brasserie – reserve a table online and ask to sit under the dome, which is stained glass. At the Bastille end of the Marais.
• If you want to splurge, one of the best meals of my life was at the Jules Verne restaurant at the Eiffel Tower. The food, service, views – all amazing. After dining, you can skip the long lines and take the private stairs down to the observation deck, and then come back and take the private elevator down – or ride down on the public elevator. Fair warning: it’s super expensive, even for lunch – so check the menu/prices online before you go. I recommend lunch for the views, and (slightly) cheaper prices. You must reserve online in advance. 

 Casual dining in the Marais:

• Au Petit Fer au Cheval – it’s worth fighting for room at the zinc bar or a table out front, for a slice of Tarte Tatin and champagne, but if it’s too crowded, you can go next door to…
• Les Philosophes is next to Le Petit Fer au Cheval
• Le Bouledogue is a good neighborhood brasserie, with – you guessed it – a bulldog motif.
• Le Cavalier Bleu is a café overlooking the Pompidou Centre. They had an inexpensive but VERY good cheese and pate assortment worth asking for - the cheese plate, and the meat plate are listed clearly - but the combination "assortiment" is a little hidden on the back of the menu - or just ask: avez vous un assortiment du fromage et pate? They do. That and a glass of wine is a good way to unwind/people watch/fortify yourself for more.

At some point, somewhere, treat yourself to a street crepe. To me, crepe stands are the French equivalent of a hot dog stand - but way more delicious. Ham and cheese for a cheap lunch, or nutella for a snack - either way, it's the perfect pick me up when you're out and about. I like to grab one anywhere leaving the Latin Quarter, and park myself in the Notre Dame plaza and people watch.

Generally, it's cheaper to order food "à emporter" (to go) then to sit and eat it. But sometimes, the view makes it worth the premium. For example, when you visit Notre Dame, be sure to walk around the back of the exterior to see the famous flying buttresses, then cross over the bridge to Ile St Louis. When you get off the bridge, you'll see three cafes - the one to the right offers Berthillon ice cream to go for a couple of euros, but if you order the same ice cream from table service, you'll pay three times the price. However, this spot has such an incredible view of sunset over Notre Dame and the Seine, that a cup of coffee or glass of wine is an acceptably cheap and cheerful way to enjoy the view. If when you're done, you still want ice cream, get it around the corner at the original Berthillon shop, which offers more flavors.

My favorite Paris walk

Place de la Concorde, Paris © 2012, Joan Klau

My favorite Paris walk is from Notre Dame, past the Louvre, through the Jardin des Tuileries (stop at La Musee de l'Orangerie as you exit), toward the Champs de L'Elysee. There are plenty of detours to recommend (Frommer's 24 Great Walks in Paris covers a lot of this terrain with good details) but I like to do this walk on my first day just to get my bearings, and then go back another day for the detours outlined below.

At the Place de la Concorde end of the Tuileries, walk up the ramp on left toward La Musee de l'Orangerie and take pictures like this down the Seine toward the Eiffel Tower. This is one of my favorite views of Paris.  If you only get this far, then you have completed my favorite walk and my work here is done.

From here, you have several options (you can of course stop and do these other options another day):

Cold/hungry? Stop in at Maison Angelina for the world's best hot chocolate (l'africain). It may look a little hoity toity, but it's not: the wait staff is equally friendly to blue-haired ladies who lunch and tired tourists. They also have other tasty bites - big and small, depending on your appetite. Delicious pastries - or I had an incredibly good nicoise salad there. Best way to get there is to exit the Jardin at the fountain and cross Rue de Rivoli – it’s #226 Rue de Rivoli. If you are done for the day, the Metro is conveniently located across the street.

Refreshed and ready for more walking? Go back through the Jardins to the Place de la Concorde and continue straight across on the Champs d'Elysee without getting killed by the motorists. You can do it! On the north side of the Champs d'Elysee, look for the park path (not the sidewalk next to the traffic) - much prettier views. When you get to Avenue de Marigny, you have several choices:

• Turn left across the Champs d'Elysee, walking between le Petit Palais and le Grand Palais (they sometimes have interesting exhibits), over the Seine to visit Napoleon's tomb in L'Hopital des Invalides (watch people playing boules on the sides of the parc). From here, you can:

• Catch the Metro to St Germain des Pres and rest your bones at a cafe.
• Walk to the Musee Rodin, then on to a café in St Germain des Pres.

• Continue straight on the Champs d'Elysee to Arc de Triomphe, which offers a well-worth-it view of the city layout and Paris traffic mayhem.  To get there:
• Either continue walking through the upscale shopping district of the Champs d'Elysee (it's like Union Square, but stretched out down one long slightly uphill boulevard) to the Arc de Triomphe.
• Or if you want to skip the shops, catch the Metro at Marigny to the Arc de Triomphe.

• Turn right and wander bustling city streets and parcs like a local.  Do NOT cross the Place de la Concorde - instead turn right out of the park, and take Rue St Florentin across Rue de Rivoli - turn right on Rue St Honore. You'll pass Place du Vendome, and eventually end up at the back end of Les Halles (turn left on Rue du Louvre). The east end of Les Halles is now mostly a teen-infested shopping arcade, but the jardins are pretty: on Rue St Honore, turn left on Rue du Louvre and wander the northern side of the park. Rue Rambuteau borders the northern side of Les Halles (detour up rue Montorgeuil for great outdoor markets and shops) and if you continue along it, you'll end up at Centre Pompidou, the industrial-looking modern art museum. If you are tired/hungry, I recommend Le Cavalier Bleu on the NW corner of the plaza overlooking the Pompidou.

Had enough? Catch the Metro (Tuileries stop) back to your hotel.

sunset from Île Saint-Louis

le coin de bonheur et détente © 2012, Joan Klau

The west end of the Île Saint-Louis has several cafes all facing the back side of Notre Dame, and is a great place to rest while watching sunset after walking the Marais, the Latin Quarter or Île de la Cité.  This photo is NOT that view, but the very charming view of all the cafes on that corner.  It's a reminder:  while gawking at the sights, just remember to occasionally turn around and admire the full 360 degrees of the experience.  

From here, you could do the reverse of my favorite walk through the Marais, or cross to the Left Bank and wander the Latin Quarter. 

Pont de l'Archevêché

Pont de l'Archevêché

Pont de l'Archevêché

Pont de l'Archevêché

Le Marais: my favorite place to wander

I highly recommend the Marais as a neighborhood to stay in because it not only gives you a nice glimpse into everyday city life, but it's also a great neighborhood to walk around. You'll shop, you'll eat, you'll see art, history, people, cobbled streets and mansard rooftops.  One of my favorite things to do is get up early, go get a croissant from a bakery like a local, get Starbucks to go (it flags me as a tourist, which is why I immediately hustle it back to my hotel room), and sit on my hotel's tiny balcony to watch the neighborhood wake up.

The Marais is one of the few and certainly most central Parisian neighborhood that did not get the Hausmann street makeover, which means the streets remain narrow, cobbled and a little jumbled.  Some "sights" in the neighborhood:

• The Picasso Museum (closed until 2013)
• The National Archives is now housed in what was the palace Louis XIV built for his married mistress (how her husband didn't notice his wife's new digs, I don't know) - I've never gone in so I can't vouch for the contents, but at least poke your head in while walking by.
• Rue des Rosiers - heart of Jewish life, tasty foods, interesting shops
• Place des Vosges - very pretty park, good for picnicking
• Centre Pompidou - Say what you will about the exterior, but inside is a great modern art museum and outside it is ringed by cafes, which makes for lovely people watching. 

There are so many hidden gems throughout the Marias, it's best to let yourself get lost for a few hours.  But, here's a suggested tour and map of the neighborhood sights:

• From the Hotel de Ville metro at the intersection of Rue de Rivoli and Rue de Renard, walk 2 blocks west on Rue de Rivoli.  
• Turn right on Rue Saint Martin.
• In 3 blocks, turn right on Rue du Cloitre Saint Martin - halfway down this block, it opens up onto La Place Igor Stravinsky and behind it, the Pompidou. But stop and enjoy the water fountains/statues and murals in La Place first.
• The Pompidou - go in if you like (I do), or just discuss the architecture. If you haven't visited the cafe mentioned above, it's on the NW corner of the Pompidou plaza.
• If it's too early to consider wine and cheese, it's probably the perfect time for a croissant. So, the north boundary of the Pompidou plaza is Rue Rambuteau - turn right (east) on Rambuteau and, after crossing Beauborg, look for the patisserie on the left and buy the most delicious croissants/pain au chocolates. If you need coffee, there is a Starbucks coming up in 2 blocks of this tour. Regardless, eat your warm croissant while walking down Rambuteau. 
• On the northeast corner of Rambuteau and Rue des Archives, peek your head into the National Archives grounds (see story above), then cut kitty corner across the intersection so you are heading south (toward the Seine) on Rue des Archives. 
• On the first block, on the right, is Jadis et Gourmande, a lovely chocolate shop with good gifty chocolates. 
• If you like beads (or know someone who does), there is an amazing bead shop across the street from Jadis et Gourmande. 
• If you need Starbucks, it's on Rue des Archives, just a half block past Rue Sainte-Croix-de-Bretonnerie. If you want your coffee to go, ask for “le café a emporter.”  Just know it immediately flags you as a tourist to walk around with it, so ditch it as soon as possible (there are loads of garbage cans around - don't litter!).
• Back at Rue Sainte-Croix-de-Bretonerie, head east. If you are returning from Starbucks, that means turning RIGHT on SCB. If you didn't go to Starbucks, then turn LEFT here. There are lots of interesting shops:
• Photography fan? Stop in at the Lomography store. 
• If you want an authentic chapeau, duck into Les Canotiers du Marais. 
• If you like tea, duck down Rue de Bourg Tibourg to the world-famous tea shop, Marriage des Freres. There is a tea salon in the back if you'd like to have a cup of tea, or you can just peruse the shop in front and smell. Excellent gifts for tea lovers.

Hôtel des Ambassadeurs, #47 Rue Vieille-du-Temple, © 2012, Joan Klau

• Back to SCB, continue east until you dead-end onto Rue du Vielle Temple - make note of the Au Petit Fer du Cheval - return later for dinner or at least a snack of tarte tatin.
• Turn left on Vielle du Temple and cruise up to Rue des Francs Bourgeouis - it's just a pretty little intersection, that's all. On your way to Rue des FB, on the left side of the street, look for the wooden doors with carved Medusa heads - take your picture in front of them. 
• Now, reverse direction on VdT and take your third left onto Rue des Rosiers - heart of the Jewish quarter, and home to many tasty treats (every guidebook has tons of suggestions - if you like fallafel, L'As du Fallafel is famous). When you get to the end of Rue des Rosiers, you have two choices: 

• Continue on to Place des Vosges, pretty parc-like plaza with cafes/shops, and end up at Place de Bastille, where we can recommend dinner at the Brasserie Bofinger. To get to Place des Vosges, turn left on Rue Pavee near the end of Rue des Rosier, then right on Rue des Francs Bourgeois, and walk 2.5 blocks. To get to Bofinger/Bastille Metro, exit Place des Vosges at the south end of the park onto Rue de Birague, and turn left on Rue St Antoine. St Antoine dead ends at Place de la Bastille where you'll find the Metro - but if you want Bofinger, take the 2nd left off St Antoine onto Rue des Tournelles, and then your first right onto Rue de la Bastille - the Brasserie is on the left. 
• Or you can turn back to wander closer to the Seine for sunset - there are tons of cute little streets to get lost or shop on. One of my favorites is the cobblestone Rue des Barres: if you're walking down VdT, turn right at Rue Francois Miron, and it will be the first alley on your left. It's a little hilly, so it's easier to walk down it - just make sure you stop often to admire the view in ALL directions. 

If you need a snack to tide you over until dinner, stop at Au Petit Fer du Cheval for tarte tatin and a beverage, or head back to the Cavalier Bleu at the Pompidou plaza for wine and cheese:

• From Au Petit Fer, go south (left) down Vielle du Temple, across Pont Louis Phillipe which puts you on Ile St Louis looking at the back of Notre Dame.
• From Pompidou, you can catch the Rambuteau Metro to the Latin Quarter if you're tired, or just walk straight down Beauborg, which turns into Renard and drops you in front of Notre Dame plaza. 

Definitely walk along the Seine to see the back of the church. Depending on how your legs are holding up, it's worth crossing the bridge connecting Notre Dame to the Ile St Louis, a tiny (4 block) island. If you are feeling weary, you can either rest up in Notre Dame plaza, or fortify yourself for the 15 minute walk around the island at any one of the cafes right at the bridge. If you want some cute/modern souvenirs, there's a nice shop on Rue Jean du Bellay - practically next door to Brasserie de L'Ile St Louis. 

Other wanderings in Paris

Notre Dame: If you ever took art history 101, then you have to go inside, and walk around the back exterior to see the flying buttresses. Climbing the stairs to see the gargoyles is up to you. If you're religious or a history buff, don't miss the reliquary. Also of note near Notre Dame are:

• Sainte Chappelle, best visited on a sunny morning when the light hits these eastern facing, magnificent stained glass windows (Blvd du Palais);
• I also like the flower market (Sundays it's also a bird market) at Place Louis Lepine. 
• Make sure you cross the bridge over to the Ile de St Louis, and walk around (it’s 2 blocks long and wide) – watch the sunset from one of the cafes at the bridge.

Montmartre: I'm not so excited by the touristy Moulin Rouge nightclub aspect of Montmartre, but I do love the carousel below Sacre Couer, the view from Sacre Couer day or night, and the general glimpse into a residential neighborhood. They close the park/carrousel at night, so arrive before sunset. Take the Metro to Anvers, walk up Steinkerque (just follow the crowd) to the carousel at Place St Pierre. You can walk the parc steps or take the funicular on the left side of the hill. I’ve never had a problem, but be vigilant for pickpockets. Check out the views as well as the inside of Sacre Couer, then use the guidebook to navigate from the top down. The art market plaza is touristy, but then it gets quiet and residential quickly, and the walk is all downhill and pretty. Stick to the guidebook routes only because if you take the wrong turn down a hill, you'll have a hell of a climb back up.

St Germain des Pres: I like to take the metro to the Jardin du Luxembourg, walk over to the Pantheon, then head back down the hill to Cafe du Flore or Deux Magots for a leisurely nosh. You can use the guidebooks to find an interesting route or shops along the way, or just make a beeline down Rue Bonaparte. Dinner at Le Petit Zinc is highly recommended.

Latin Quarter: It’s crowded with tourists near Notre Dame, but there are some charming side streets to get lost in – I mostly head east, a block off the river. If you're a book lover, don't miss Shakespeare & Co.

Rue Montorgueil & Rue Mouffetard are two very different types of market strolls. Mouffetard is on the left bank, near the Luxembourg Gardens, and is more residential. It's a long downhill stroll past storefronts spilling over the sidewalk and into the cobbled street with their very specific wares: fish, cheese, meats, fruit, bread. It smells delicious - great place to assemble a picnic. Montorgueil is on the other side of the Seine, on the north side of Les Halles, and it's a more bustling urban business with vendors sharing sidewalks with cafes. Some of the vendors are a little more high end, which makes this foodie stroll a great place to pick up gifts.

Opera Quarter: It’s been a long time since I toured the Opera, but if you like that kind of thing, it’s cool. Then wander over to the foodie/chic shops like Fauchon and Laduree around Place de la Madeleine.

Pere Lachaise cimitierre is prettiest in spring, but if you're curious...go! If you just want to see Jim Morrison's grave, you can enter/exit at Phillipe Auguste metro. But, honestly, that's the least interesting part of the cemetery and it's an uphill climb to the more interesting part of the cemetery – so I recommend taking the Metro to Gambetta and entering from that side of the cemetery (ask the guard shack for a map) and stroll DOWN the hill from Oscar Wilde to Jim Morrison, and exiting near Phillipe Auguste metro.

Paris outdoor food markets

When you go to Paris, you owe it to yourself to visit at least one food market, and assemble a picnic to enjoy in one of Paris’ many beautiful parks.

Rue Mouffetard is a long hill of shops with stalls spilling out over the curb.  I recommend starting at the top (nearest metro: Place Monge) and then take the long lazy walk down (south on Mouffetard toward). The nearby Luxembourg Gardens are stunningly beautiful, and a perfect place for your market picnic.

Rue Montorgueil has more cafes sprinkled in between the shops, so it has a little more of a see and be seen vibe. I highly recommend reading David Lebovitz's tour of the market (in fact, I highly recommend his blog in general for advice about visiting/living in Paris). Couple of notable shops I loved:

• L'Atelier du Chocolat - really good chocolate with interesting flavors, options. Good for gifts or nibbles while you walk. 
• G. Detou - if you like to bake, open your wallet here. Good for gifts too. 
• Stohrer claims to be the oldest patisserie in Paris. Try not to drool. 
• E. DeHellerin is nearby.  If you like to cook, make the detour to see their insane range of cooking supplies, including beautiful copper cookware in the basement, as well as other kitchen odds and ends.  Take a tour with Kevin Sharkey and before you go, read David Lebovitz's advice about shopping there. 

I always visit the Marché aux Fleurs near Notre Dame.  There's an amazing orchid shop on the northeast corner of the market, and on Sundays, it's also a bird market.  Also, I'm sort of in love with the entrance to the nearest Metro, Cité. 

Paris galeries (where the art is shopping)

In Paris, a galerie means an arcade, a uniquely Parisian architectural and shopping gem housing a collection of boutiques in the center of a city block, hidden behind an iron gate and kept dry under a glass arcade ceiling. It's worth googling “Paris galeries” to see some options.

One result you’re sure to get is Galeries Lafayette which is Paris’ biggest and most famous department store with a gorgeous stained glass ceiling. IMHO, it’s worth dropping in to see the rotunda’s ceiling and people watch, but I’m more interested in the much more charming, intimate old school galeries with interesting boutiques and cafes.

During filming, our guide took us to Galerie Vivienne, a registered landmark with a lovely wine bar, café, candy shop, antique bookstore, hat shop, women’s and men’s clothing, and a charming gift shop.

Paris museum tips

If you’re going to see more than one museum, it’s well worth buying the Paris Museum Pass.  Not only is it cost-efficient, but many of the museums have pass-holder lines that may not be well-marked, but always MUCH shorter and worth asking for. You can buy the Pass at major metro/train stations, Paris Information kiosks (there's one outside Notre Dame), or at a museum (I get mine at Musee de L’Orangerie, where the line is usually short).

• The Louvre is open late on Wednesdays and Friday at a reduced rate. Go then, or go first thing in the am AND use your pass to skip the line at the pyramid entrance.  Instead use the "secret" museum pass entrance in the Richelieu Wing:  assuming you took the Metro to Palais Royal/Musee du Louvre, exit and face the Louvre, cross Rue de Rivoli and turn LEFT and walk along Rivoli until you encounter a gated archway - the entrance is on the right under the arch. Most people walk through this archway to the pyramid and never notice the museum entrance on the right, but there it is: brass stanchions, velvet rope, glass security booth. Flash your pass at the security guard and he'll wave you in. You can always have your pyramid experience as you exit the museum, but the lines to get in can be horrendous. The Richelieu entrance is insanely fast.
• The D’Orsay pass entrance is to the right, around the corner, of the main entrance.
• Musee Rodin is a good pit stop between Napoleon's tomb (Hotel des Invalides) and a St Germain des Pres cafe. If you're not up for the whole museum tour, you can just swing through the pretty sculpture garden. 
• The Picasso Museum makes a good excuse to visit the Marais, but is sadly closed until 2013 for renovations.  
• Have I mentioned lately how much I love Musee de l'Orangerie?  Read more about why here.

Monet in Paris and Giverny

If you are at all interested in gardening or Monet’s waterlily series, then you owe it to yourself to visit La Musee de L’Orangerie, the small Paris museum that houses his water lily paintings, and Monet's garden home in Giverny, an hour outside of Paris.

Lilypads in Giverny  © 2012, Joan Klau

Quite possibly my favorite art on display in the world, Monet's Les Nymphaes (Water Lilies) are installed at La Musee de l'Orangerie in Paris, as Monet designed them for display.  Housed in the king's old greenhouse, Les Nymphaes hang in just two rooms with four panels in each, with the ceiling scrimmed so that natural light falls on the paintings. As clouds pass, the light and therefore the paintings change. I actually prefer and recommend going on a partly sunny day so you can witness how a passing cloud can change the light and therefore paintings. You could be in and out in 30 minutes if you're short on time, but I have easily spent two hours watching how the light changes each panel of Les Nymphaes.  If you like Impressionist art, there's more Impressionist and post-Impressionist art in the basement level (and the Musee D'Orsay is a short 10 minute walk to the other side of the Seine). It is one of my happy places. Gorgeous. Even if you can't get out to Giverny, do not miss L'Orangerie.

Les Nymphaes in the Musee de l'Orangerie, © 2011, Joan Klau

Giverny is the small village 45 minutes north of Paris where Monet lived and painted his water lilies as well as many garden paintings. The Fondation Monet maintains his home and gardens which you can tour from April to November (you can buy tickets online in advance to avoid the line).  The studio where he painted has been turned into a gift shop, but you can tour the house where he lived, see his chickens, tour the massive formal gardens, and then cross under the street to the informal gardens around the waterlily pond (which he built by diverting a nearby river through his property, much to the consternation of his neighbors). I've been twice - once in late April when huge pink tulips carpetted the formal gardens, and the wisteria and trees were just beginning to bud; and once in early September when the tulips were gone, but there was a riot of irises and other flowers, and the wisteria was blooming on the bridge. 



September is when Giverny is most lush, and if you squint as Monet did, you can see how his gardens and pond inspired his Impressionist style.



Giverny is about an hour drive north of Paris. You can take a train, then bus, then walk to the house, but I recommend renting a car for the day and seeing Versaille in the morning, and then Giverny in the afternoon. See my notes about renting a car in Paris for Giverny/Versailles.

There’s no need to overnight in Giverny - you're only an hour outside of Paris.  HOWEVER, if you want an excuse (or you're heading on to Normandy after), we found a beautiful inn and fabulous dinner in nearby Croisy-sur-Eure that is worth the overnight. Le Moulin de Bechet is a big beautiful property often used by groups for retreats or weddings, but individuals can also reserve a room online. Rooms are a clean, comfortable rustic country cottage style overlooking gorgeous gardens and an old watermill. Be sure to stroll the property and look for the irises growing on the thatched roof, and the wisteria outside the dining room where your continental breakfast is served.



For dinner, the innkeeper recommended the restaurant in Hotel Altina in nearby Pacy-sur-Eure, and I fully admit we were deeply skeptical when we walked in because the hotel looks like a Holiday Inn - but the food and wine list was one of the best we had in France (and we went out of our way to some 4 star restaurants). Tom still speaks longingly of the fish soup he ordered (he let each of us have a spoonful then practically licked the bowl clean); I had a delicious entrecôte steak; and Cathy ordered a wonderful bottle of Côte de Nuits. 

Penny pinching tips in Paris

Paris is a great place to splurge, but it's not necessary. In fact, some of the best experiences are had on the cheap.  Here are some ways I save money in Paris:

• If you're going to visit more than one museum or famous sight (and you will), it's totally worth buying the Paris Museum Pass.  More here about how it saves time AND money. 
• Call your bank before you go and find out who your partner ATMs are for the lowest fees and exchange rates.  It's cheapest to just withdraw cash from a partner ATM than to exchange cash. You should also call your bank and credit card company to let them know when and where you're going, including any layovers, so you don't get a fraud hold on your card at an inconvenient time during your travels, or get fraudulent charges after you've gone home.
• Splitting the bills with friends?  We use Short Reckonings to track who paid what for whom.

Transportation:

• To/from the airport:  IMHO, it depends on when you arrive, your tolerance for crowds vs traffic, how much luggage you have, and how comfortable you are finding your way to the hotel.  Me personally, I'm happy to save money taking the RER to the Metro, but that's because I took an Advil PM on the red-eye, I only have a carry-on suitcase and backpack, I don't mind the commuter crowds changing from the RER to the Metro, and I generally know how to get around the trains/city.  But, if you're too tired to deal with crowds or have big suitcases, sit back and relax in a taxi - and accept the fact that you'll sit in 45-60 minutes of rush hour traffic.  If I recall correctly, the fare for 3 people varied from 60-100 euros, depending on traffic.  When travelling with my parents, they decided it was worth the extra money to take the taxi and not hassle with crowds and luggage.  For more than 2 people, it's worth emailing the hotel to ask if they recommend an airport shuttle service.  

When is it worth renting a car?

• You do not want or need a car in Paris.  You can get everywhere you want to go in Paris by Metro/RER and on foot.  Even the occasional cab is better than the hassle/expense of having a rental car in Paris.  
• You can get to Versaille by train - so don't bother with a car rental for that unless you also want to see Giverny (which I highly recommend).  Giverny is supposedly doable by train, but kind of time-consuming due to transfers, etc.  However, since Versaille and Giverny are generally in the same direction, I recommend renting a car for the day to see both.  
• Overnight trips beyond Paris - to the Loire, Rouen, Normandy.  Yes, you could take the train, but you'll want a car when you get there and it's very pretty countryside along the way.  Rent a car - but rent it as close to the Peripherique (the freeway that circles the city) as possible to avoid city traffic.
• If you do rent a car, it may seem convenient to pick up at the Louvre, but you can spare yourself at least an hour of mind-blowing city traffic if you take the Metro to an agency as close to the Peripherique (the highway the circumnavigates Paris) as possible located in the general direction that you're headed.  For example, if you're going to Giverny or Versailles, take the Metro or RER to Porte Maillot and you'll be on the A16 in no time! 
• For the trip between Paris and Provence, it depends on whether you plan to make any stops along the way.  If you just want to get there, it's faster (3 hours vs 7-8 hours, and you avoid the Paris traffic) and cheaper to take the hi-speed TGV and get a rental car in Avignon.  We did some overnights in/around Lyon, which made driving worth it - but if you just want to hightail it to/from Provence, definitely take the TGV.

Train tips:

• I personally love the Metro and RER trains in Paris.  Buy a carnet (a packet of 10 tickets) instead of individual tickets.  Always hang on to your ticket until you get off in case the conductor asks for it. Metro tickets are also good on the funicular at Montmartre. 
• For the TGV, you can buy tickets online before you go, but if you select US as your country of origin, they'll redirect you to the Rail Europe and add fees.  Pick another English-speaking country to stay on the TGV site and make your purchase.  
• You do not need to get your tickets mailed to you in advance - you can print them online from home OR at the station with your reservation number.  
• It's also generally not a problem to get tickets when you get to Paris - trains do get full, so you might not get an ideal seat, but unless it's a holiday or peak hour, you should get a seat on the train you want.  
• The comfort difference between 1st and 2nd class tickets is, IMHO, negligible - to me, it's a matter of whether you want to guarantee you'll sit together or potentially sit apart and/or next to strangers. 

Eating out:
You will always pay more to sit down and get table service, and be forewarned that the French linger over every morsel, so if you're in a hurry to move on to sight-seeing, sitting down may not be worth the time or money.  For example, Dad likes to have a proper meal for breakfast, lunch and dinner, and will happily pay the premium to sit down at the hotel breakfast, a corner cafe, or restaurant.  However, he gets impatient waiting for the bill.

• Don't be an ugly American and get huffy if they seem to be ignoring you.  Typically, there are only one or two waiters servicing an entire cafe - so be patient.  Politely use the international signal - scribble an imaginary pencil in your hand - or ask for "la note" or "l'addition, s'il vous plait." 
• When they leave the bill with you, ask if you pay inside - in a small corner cafe kind of place, it's usually fine/appreciated to bring the bill inside to the bar counter.
  

Personally, I prefer to save time and money over breakfast and lunch - and spend the savings relaxing at a corner cafe mid-afternoon when my feet hurt from walking.

• In the morning, I get in line with the locals for a croissant at the nearest bakery.  Then, I admit it, I go to Starbucks and ask for my coffee "à emporter" (to go) - hotels don't have coffee makers in the rooms, and nowhere else offers coffee to go.  I usually take all of this to a park bench, or my hotel room to plot my day because eating and drinking while walking immediately pegs you as a tourist.  
• For lunch, I like a cheap and cheerful ham and cheese crepe from a street vendor or an "à emporter" window at a cafe/restaurant. 
• Bread, cheese, fruit, wine and pâté - this is what I came to Paris for!  I also love to go food shopping at the morning outdoor markets on Rue de Mouffetard or Rue de Montorgeuil (I haven't been to Rue Cler yet). So pack a wine bottle opener, little plastic cutting board and a knife, and you're all set for a cheap picnic lunch/snack.
• I don't usually eat dinner until 8pm in Paris - so around 4pm, when my feet are barking, I'll find a cafe with a nice view of the sunset and relax over a glass of wine.  If it costs 9 euro to order ice cream at the table, I'll usually just enjoy the drink and then find a "à emporter" window or a pastry shop and get a nibble to eat while I walk off my drink.  Don't bring food to the cafe - get it to go elsewhere afterwards. 

Tipping: 

• Americans notoriously overtip out of confusion in restaurants, but in France, a 15% tip will be automatically (by law) added to your bill. Check the receipt - it should says "prix compris" - and even if it doesn't, trust me - there will be an extra 15% listed on the bill and that's the service charge (aka, tip).  Nowadays, they bring the credit card machine to you and run the card before you can add a tip, assuming that the 15% already included is sufficient.  If you have great service and want to leave an extra 5% more, ok - but no one expects it.  But always tip in cash - don't try to add it to the credit card.  For this reason, I always carry coins.
• For drinks, leave a centime or two per drink.  
• For a cafe or most restaurants, you could add one euro for every 20 euros spent.  
• If it's a very fancy restaurant with great service, you can leave 20 euros.  
• Check the guidebooks, but:
• I leave a euro or two/day for the chambermaid.  
• I round up a cab driver's fare to the nearest euro.  If it's to/from the airport, I'll round it up by 5 euros. and add a euro/bag on top of the fare. 
• The front desk clerks are always happy to call in a dinner reservation, so depending on how long I'm there, how often I rely on them, and how friendly they are, I might tip a 5 euros when I checkout (the clerks who bent over backwards to accomodate our change in plans due to Dad's medical emergency got 20 euros each - but they were amazing). 

Hotels:

• I've stayed in some very nice hotels, but IMHO, I'm not in Paris to spend time in my hotel room.  So now I look for something clean and safe in a central location (I prefer the Marais - see recos here), close to the Metro, and with free Wi-Fi.  If I'm going June-September, I also want AC.
• It pays to reserve a room as soon as you know you're going.  Check the cancellation policy - and if it allows cancellations, book it!  Just make sure you cancel asap if you find something better.

Medical issues: 

• Know your medical insurance policy's foreign medical coverage before you go.  When my dad had an issue, we discovered that if we had called the hotel doctor, his medical insurance would have covered NOTHING.  However, because he went through the emergency room, EVERYTHING was covered.  
• Good news or bad news first?  Good news: his medical costs were half what it would've been in the US.  Bad news: they require full payment (credit cards accepted) before you leave.
• If you need OTC or prescription medicine, head to the pharmacist first (look for the green cross-shaped neon sign).  They're quite knowledgable and can potentially save you a trip to the hospital/doctor.
• If you do need a doctor, I highly recommend the American Hospital in Paris.  Don't get overly excited - it's not staffed by Americans or meant to cater to Americans (although that was the founders' intention).  But, it is one of the best hospitals in Europe, and many of the staff do speak English.  The doctors and nurses took excellent care of my Dad, were clearly up on the latest research and cutting edge techniques, and bent over backwards to take time to answer all of our questions (seriously, the chief of cardiac care spent an HOUR answering pre-discharge questions - in the US, we would've been lucky to get five minutes).

Travel Insurance:  I have a new-found respect for investing in travel insurance, which you must purchase BEFORE leaving, preferably as soon as you book your tickets:

• Whatever wasn't covered by my dad's medical insurance would have been covered by his travel insurance.  Also, travel insurance would have covered costs related to a change in travel plans due to medical "evacuation."  So if he had needed to go home for medical care, all the last-minute travel costs, as well as cancelled travel costs would have been covered.  
• Labor strikes do happen, which can throw a monkey wrench into plans and budgets.  Be sure to check the fine print, but many travel insurance plans do cover labor strikes causing complete cessation of a common carrier for a set amount of time, usually 12, 24 or 48 hours.  If you purchased your insurance before the strike was announced, you should be covered - however, once a strike is announced, it is considered a foreseeable event no longer eligible for coverage.  Rates do go up the closer you get to your trip, so buy it as soon as you book your airfare.

Movies that get me in the mood for Paris

Amelie with Audrey Tautou.
Scorsese's Hugo.
Woody Allen's Midnight in Paris.
Baz Luhrmann's Moulin Rouge.
Before Sunset with Ethan Hawke and Julie Delpy (picks up nine years after Before Sunrise, in which the characters meet and fall in love in Vienna)
Something’s Gotta Give with Diane Keaton and Jack Nicholson (true story: I hated this movie when I first saw it in movie theaters, but now it's one of those guilty TV pleasures)
Pixar's Ratatouille
The DaVinci Code (Audrey Tautou again, with Tom Hanks - for conspiracy theorists)
Like musicals?  Try An American in Paris with Gene Kelly.
Marion Cotillard won a Best Actress Oscar for La Vie en Rose.
Diva is an 80's classic.
Bertolucci's (and Brando's) classic, Last Tango in Paris.

The sights of Paris (video)

This is the second Paris promo edited from the 3 days of filming we did in May 2011.  The DP was Wes Dorman, and we shot on a Canon 5D.  Enjoy!

Paris hotels

In general, Parisian hotel rooms are small, like NYC hotels.  Personally, I like to stay in the Marais (4eme) district - the Jewish/gay/fashion district. It's also the only Parisian quarter that did not have its streets redone by Haussman, so it's a lovely warren of old, narrow cobblestone streets in which to get happily lost. It's a lively neighborhood of locals (vs tourists) convenient to many sights and the Metro.  Here's where I like to lay my head in the Marais:

2nd floor view from Hotel Beaubourg, © 2012, Joan Klau

Hotel Beaubourg: Every room is decorated differently, and the ones facing on the street are bigger than the ones in the back. If you’re so inclined, they do a nice simple breakfast in the basement cave.

Looking west from room #53, Hotel Vieux Marais, © 2012, Joan Klau

If the Beaubourg is sold out, then Hotel Vieux Marais is just one block away for the same price. Fair warning: this place has been under construction for the last four years - and truth be told, the rooms are pretty basic.  Some can be tiny with thin walls, and a little chipped around the edges, but they are clean, in a great location, and the staff is INCREDIBLY kind if you are friendly. Definitely email ahead to request a room overlooking the street (otherwise, your view will be of an airshaft), particularly one of the doubles overlooking the street on the 4th or 5th floor.

We didn't stay there, so I can't say for sure, but we looked into Hotel de la Bretonnerie and it seemed cute, with similar price/location/reviews.

The first time Ben and I went to Paris, we stayed at the Hotel Colbert, in the Latin Quarter - a bit nicer, but twice the price as the Marais.

Also, I found if you can find a reason to have a friendly email exchange with the hotel, even if just to confirm your reservation or arrival/departure dates, they will do their best to accomodate your requests - including putting you on a waitlist, or a room with a view - although instead of asking for a room with a view, I usually ask for a room on the top or upper floor, overlooking the street or courtyard (depending on the property). If you can speak/read French (or can fake it with translate.google.com), people tend to be much friendlier (and accomodating).

love letter to Paris (video)

In May 2012, I had the unbelievably good fortune to film Paris for 3 days to promote the 2013 Shaklee Top Achievers International Trip. I had just gone in September 2011 with my parents, so I had a really good idea in my head both of the classic "must-see" sights we needed to cover and of the quotidienne Paris life I wanted to capture. The DP was Wes Dorman shooting on a Canon EOS 5D Mark III, and the editor was Tom Meyer.  This video is the first fruits of our labor - we plan to do shorter videos around different themes, like beauty, art, sights and cuisine. For now, enjoy this one!

Sorbet in Seguret

During our day-long ramble along the Côtes du Rhône loop, we stopped in lovely Seguret.  More highlights/ideas about the area are here.

Strolling Seguret, © 2012, Joan Klau

Shady streets, warm walls, © 2012, Joan Klau

Une porte, © 2012, Joan Klau

sorbet à la fenêtre, © 2012, Joan Klau

Provence highlights

I liked wandering around Avignon, and seeing the amphitheater in Orange, and I’m curious to explore the art trail in Aix-en-Provence, but these are all bigger towns – and I prefer rambling the backroads between the villages north, south and east of Carpentras much more.  Definitely read some Peter Mayles before/while you go.  These are just my brief highlights of Provence so far - I'll do some more detailed posts soon.

Markets:  Almost every village has its own market day. You’ll find a list of who has one when here. Some are very small – for example, Le Barroux had just 3 vendors. Bedoin had 2 blocks worth.  Carpentras is a bigger town, and has the biggest market – get there before lunch to do the full long stroll along the city boulevards, up into the city center’s old alleys and plaza, before they start packing up during the lunch hour.

Carpentras is sort of the western gateway to the Vaucluse (Provence). It’s the biggest town of notable size and services – everything east of it is more a small, rural village. So gas up and get supermarket groceries here.  Carpentras also has, by far, the biggest Provencal market on Fridays.  They start packing up by lunchtime, so plan accordingly.  Allow two to three hours to stroll the entire market.

South of Carpentras:  Isle-Sur-La-Sorgue and Pernes-les-fontaines are famous “water” towns. Isle-Sur-La-Sorgue has a cute downtown (antique) shopping and dining district along the river’s many little switchbacks. And Pernes-La-Fontaine has a ridiculous number of fountains scattered around town. Gets a little overrun with tourists. Further south is Cavaillon, famous for their melons.

Côtes du Rhône loop, © 2012, Joan Klau

Northern villages: The Côtes du Rhône loop is perfectly sized for a lovely day-long ramble through the Dentelles mountains and their vineyards with picturesque hilltop villages, and interesting Roman ruins and churches (Vaison-La-Romaine). Pack your camera and don’t hesitate to stop on the side of the road for pictures or tasting wine. I like to make the circuit counter-clock-wise from Carpentras to Malaceune, Vaison-La-Romaine, Seguret, Sablet, Gigondas, Vacqueyras, and Beaumes-de-Venise. The wines in Sablet and Gigondas are great with a steak or grilled lamb, and Beaumes-de-Venise is famous for its sweet white muscat.

On our last trip, we rented a house in the vineyard flats of Le Barroux, which was lovely.  Nearby at the Abbaye du Barroux, we attended Mass conducted by Benedictine monks, who are silent except for chanting. The church itself is fairly modern (70s), but it’s really interesting to follow along in silence using three mass books – one Latin, one French, one English. And the chanting is beautiful. In the hilltop village, Les Geraniums has delicious food overlooking the vineyards at sunset. 

L'Abbaye de Senanque, © 2012, Joan Klau

Lavender is mostly grown in the more arid flats of Provence just east of the Cotes du Rhone loop, and it’s harvested in July/August. I keep missing full bloom, but the nubby gravel fields in Sault and Senanque are still pretty. On your way to Sault from Bedoin, look for words of encouragement chalked/painted on the road – they’re for the Tour de France riders.

Central/south villages:  Rouissillon is famous for its natural ochre pigments which were mined for paint and textiles use until the 30s. The Sentier des Ochres is a short, pretty walk through an old ochre quarry with pretty views of Provence and other hillside towns. It’s also a good place to feel/hear the mistral winds, and notice the effect on vegetation.

On the Sentier des Ochres, © 2012, Joan Klau

A borie outside Gordes, © 2012, Joan Klau

Gordes is apparently where the rich helicopter in for the  weekend.  The view of and from the village in the late afternoon light are stunning.  Look for the “bories” on the south-westerly way out of town.
Bonnieux, Lacoste and Menerbes are classic, small, picturesque hilltop villages. These are the towns that Mayles wrote about. 

Things I need to explore more:

After we dropped Ben at the airport in Marseilles, we had lunch in Cassis and drove along La Ciotat, one of the highest maritime bluffs in Europe. I’d like to go back and take a boat tour of the calanques – inlets sheltered by steep cliffs – and swim in the ocean. I’d also like to explore further east of Cassis, along the Mediterranean.

La route de Crête above Cassis, © 2012, Joan Klau

• I’d like to see the Camargue marshlands with its wild horses.
• Dad and I really wanted to see (and float under) the Pont du Gard, just outside of Avignon. Sadly, our car’s onboard navigation took us the wrong way into a 2 hour freeway nightmare which ate up all the time we had before our train back to Paris. I guess it just gives us a good excuse to go back.

Photos of Paris & Provence, 2011

Here are some select photos from my 2011 trip to Paris and Provence with my folks.